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<h2>Zagreb - the Capital</h2>We only spent two cumulative nights in Croatia’s capital city - the first night we arrived from Slovenia and the last night before we took a bus to Vienna. Though we did not see much, just peeking at the city in the dark, we found it to be fairly walkable and somewhat interesting. Many travel blogs told us not to spend the lion’s share of our time here, and I’d second that.&nbsp;That said, we did have a delicious hamburger on our first night at a restaurant called Submarine. I thoroughly enjoyed my burger and fries, and they even make a “burger beer” crafted to complement the hamburger.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552327/IMG_1573_47ccfc54c8.jpg" alt="IMG_1573.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552328/thumbnail_IMG_1573_47ccfc54c8.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552330/small_IMG_1573_47ccfc54c8.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552330/medium_IMG_1573_47ccfc54c8.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552329/large_IMG_1573_47ccfc54c8.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>We left Zagreb via car, and in the taxi to the rental car pickup, our driver took it upon himself to give us an oral history of Croatia. Convenient, right? Croatia is ancient, and has suffered through various wars, being conquered by everyone, most recently the Russians, and has an admittedly very corrupt current government. We also heard about their athletic prowess, boasting athletes and/or teams at the top of their game across basketball, soccer (football, you know how this works), handball, and other international competitive sports. The more you know!We also got to experience several lovely sites during our 3.5-hour drive to Zadar - snow-capped mountains, gorgeous seaside cliffs, and efficient highways. The temperature dropped at least 20 degrees Fahrenheit during our drive and climbed back up as we approached our destination.<h2>Zadar - Musical City by the Sea</h2>Zadar (pronounced zaaaa-dar, like piz-zaaaa, emphasis on the ahhhh sound of the first “a”), was a fascinating city. We didn’t see much of it, as we camped out in our comfy AirBnb trying to spend as little money as possible. Our host was a hoot and a half - he showed us each lovely, hand-chosen, artisan item he chose to fill his rented room. The doors and furniture were all handmade from one felled tree in the area, he went to Paris to choose the bathroom counter, and he bought only the best Chanel perfume and cologne for guests to use. Oh!! While he was giving us the tour, we actually learned that his wife was actively in labor. We were like dude, get out of here! He said his wife gave him her blessing to go get that money and the baby would come later that day until he got the call (!) that his second daughter had made her appearance. We all hugged and showered him with our best wishes. It was an extraordinary moment.&nbsp;One of the sites we saw in Zadar was the sea organ, which sounded strange but is a literal organ carved from stone that makes music when the waves hit it. It’s very cool and whoever created it is truly gifted.&nbsp;AJ just reminded me Zadar was the second-largest city in the former Venetian empire! Major trading power; very cool.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552839/sea_organ1_1_3f943cdd73.jpg" alt="sea-organ1-1.jpeg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552840/thumbnail_sea_organ1_1_3f943cdd73.jpg 245w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552841/small_sea_organ1_1_3f943cdd73.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552840/medium_sea_organ1_1_3f943cdd73.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h2>Split - All Stone, All the Time</h2>Alrighty, let’s head to Split! Split is a city of stone, which is evidently a Dalmatian thing. I still cannot confirm whether Dalmatian puppies come from the Dalmiatian region of Croatia, but I do know that there are kitty cats and stone buildings all over that city. Our AirBnb here was up a steep hill on the ground floor of one such building. I was thrilled with the kitties after not getting to interact with many back in Istanbul, and one neighbor kitty, in particular, befriended me and let me pet her every day. I called her Miss Kitty and she rocked.&nbsp;AJ and I ventured up, up, up the hill we were staying on to see the sites of Split from above, and the seaside view was spectacular. Also spectacular was the Christmas market near the old city, where we had daily mulled wine because when in Croatia, no? We also traipsed around the old city, where there was a Roman emperor’s palace still partially intact.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552996/IMG_0027_8c8ee12be1.jpg" alt="IMG_0027.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552997/thumbnail_IMG_0027_8c8ee12be1.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552999/small_IMG_0027_8c8ee12be1.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552998/medium_IMG_0027_8c8ee12be1.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552998/large_IMG_0027_8c8ee12be1.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Other than that, AJ and I hung out inside, started watching&nbsp;Wednesday on Netflix (cute), and generally relaxed.<h2>Dubrovnik - King’s Landing Fit for Royalty</h2>Okay, I bet you know more about Dubrovnik than the rest of Croatia because this is where Game of Thrones’ King’s Landing was filmed! It’s a walled, ancient city that we thoroughly enjoyed exploring, even though it was rainy and/or overcast the entire time.&nbsp;Our AirBnb was inside the city walls. The city is particularly steep, especially in the rain, and the stone steps are treacherous but beautiful. On the first day, we ate near our place at a traditional Dalmatian restaurant and met even more cats than in Split (!!!). Some were seeking warmth and shelter under the awning of our restaurant during the rain, and a black cat quickly noticed that I was a sucker and was willing to feed her. I shared a few mussels, which she appreciated, but she really lost it when I got my ribeye, placing her front paws on my leg gently and meowing loudly (“come ON, lady! You’ve GOT to share the steak, are you kidding me??”). I, of course, obliged and decided to purchase a bag of kibbles to distribute among the plentiful cats of Dubrovnik.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552112/IMG_0044_336441ede0.jpg" alt="IMG_0044.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552113/thumbnail_IMG_0044_336441ede0.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552115/small_IMG_0044_336441ede0.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552114/medium_IMG_0044_336441ede0.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>The cats I encountered were generally well-fed looking, though largely shy. AJ always pointed out piles of kibble when we passed them, but I was still excited to further contribute to the kibble. Many times, I would place a small pile and walk away, watching the cat approach to eat only once I was out of petting reach. A few times, though, I fed one kitty only to see one more poke her head out of a building, then after feeding her, five more would politely if impatiently request their own individual piles of kitty kibble. I, of course, always acquiesced to their kibble preferences. Turns out that the best way to make cat friends is to shake a bag of food at them.&nbsp;Outside of my feline friends, we explored Dubrovnik more than the other cities. We walked around the walls, which is a must-do attraction for any visitor. We also visited an ancient pharmacy/monastery, where I bought some perfumed though greasy hand lotion (orange blossom and rose scented.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552572/IMG_1705_94a27bbdd3.jpg" alt="IMG_1705.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552573/thumbnail_IMG_1705_94a27bbdd3.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552575/small_IMG_1705_94a27bbdd3.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552574/medium_IMG_1705_94a27bbdd3.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671552573/large_IMG_1705_94a27bbdd3.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>We also had a meal at a restaurant after a man with menus accosted (nicely-ish) us in the streets, alternating between strong-arming and begging us to eat there. We promised to return for dinner, and we did! We sat upstairs in the narrow building and had yummy seafood, but were punished by the soundtrack, which was entirely comprised of mediocre-at-best ABBA covers. I am a staunch, loyal-to-a-fault, ABBA enthusiast, but these covers were just AWFUL. Makes for a funny story, though.Okay, that’s all for Croatia! I know we breezed through three weeks very quickly. I usually write at least this many words for fewer cities, but hey, that’s the way the cookie crumbles sometimes. Stay tuned for our next adventure - returning to the very cold, very beautiful Eastern Europe for Christmastime!

We hung out in Zagreb, Zadar, Split, and Dubrovnik, Croatia for three weeks. Read all about it!

Croatia! | Expedition JAWA

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Croatia!

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<h2>More Like Buda-BEST, Am I Right?</h2><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812328/IMG_2065_de61098729.jpg" alt="IMG_2065.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812339/thumbnail_IMG_2065_de61098729.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812364/small_IMG_2065_de61098729.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812363/medium_IMG_2065_de61098729.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812353/large_IMG_2065_de61098729.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Before we go any further, I must divulge that I LOVED Budapest. I find when I go to describe each city we visited, I end up sharing mostly positive things because each city in the world truly does have something to recommend it. I am not exaggerating, however, when I say that Budapest rocketed to the tippy top of my personal list. It’s up there with Rome, Amsterdam, and Barcelona, in my opinion. Simply gorgeous. So keep my bias in mind as you read, though I think you’d feel the same way if you visit!Budapest is all about the vibes, and that’s a bit cringy to read, I know, because I’m a millennial, but it’s still true. The city is foggy, atmospheric, absolutely stunning, and somehow still laid back and non-pretentious about the exquisite beauty. We learned on tours that the beauty is because of the former Austro-Hungarian empire; Budapest’s architecture is very similar to Vienna’s because of the Habsburg desire for a cohesive, elegant look through their empire. Let me show you a picture of their Parliament building at night, for example. It’s ALL vibes.&nbsp;We stayed on the Pest side of town; if you weren’t aware, three areas were all combined in 1873 to make up Budapest: Buda, Óbuda, and Pest. Pest is the commerce side, Buda is where the castle is, and Óbuda is “Old Buda” in Hungarian, and site of some ancient remains. Pest houses the Parliament, as shown above, as well as one of the many famous hot baths in town. Buda and Pest are right across the Danube from each other. The weather during our visit in mid-November was chilly and windy, so we ended up opting not to cross into Buda to schlep up the mountain and to the castle. Next time, for sure.I mentioned baths above, and boy, should you plan to go to one when you visit. Regardless of the time of year, it’s worth doing. We chose the Szechenyi Baths, one of the oldest, largest, and most beautiful in town to visit. I found a “beer spa” option on their site, and we signed up to take beer baths. What’s a beer bath, you ask? We hung out in big wooden tubs for an hour that had hops, malt, and beer salt dissolved in pleasantly warm water. We also got to drink ice-cold beer from a tap between the tubs. I highly, highly, highly recommend it.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534291/IMG_1375_13002ec1e4.jpg" alt="IMG_1375.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534292/thumbnail_IMG_1375_13002ec1e4.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534293/small_IMG_1375_13002ec1e4.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534293/medium_IMG_1375_13002ec1e4.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534293/large_IMG_1375_13002ec1e4.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h3>Tours!</h3>You know we love a tour, dear reader, and we took two in Budapest. The first was a morning food tour in the lovely Central Market Hall. This hall reminded me of Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia, though there’s more breathing room and its history is older.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534454/IMG_1400_3492247d1f.jpg" alt="IMG_1400.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534455/thumbnail_IMG_1400_3492247d1f.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534456/small_IMG_1400_3492247d1f.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534456/medium_IMG_1400_3492247d1f.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534455/large_IMG_1400_3492247d1f.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>We started our tour with homemade palinka from our tour guide. Palinka is a local liquor that they claim is a fruit brandy, but it tastes like straight moonshine from a distant relative’s freezer. Put another way, it’s like drinking lighter fluid. Don’t say I didn’t warn you! We then visited several wonderful stalls in the market and ate langos - fried dough with sour cream and shredded cheese on top (delicious, but TMI alert - my stomach did NOT enjoy either time I ate langos). We also sampled several salamis, including horse! AJ thought it tasted like any other salami; I noticed a difference but suspect it was partially a mental block. They told us that horses are never bred to be eaten, rather, if a horse passes away they may make use of it. I still had mixed emotions but still tried to say I had.Our second tour was equally wonderful, though non-food related: we walked around the Jewish Quarter of the city with a local who also took us to a ruin bar!&nbsp;Let’s talk about something sobering for a moment - you may not know the degree to which Hungarians, especially Hungarian Jews, suffered during WWII, and I am morally obligated to enlighten you. An estimated 400,000 Hungarian Jewish people and 28,000 Roma people were slaughtered by the Nazis, either in the barbaric concentration camps or in the city of Budapest itself. A ghetto was erected in the city before those persecuted were taken out to camps, and tens if not hundreds of thousands of victims were killed within those walls in Budapest. We learned about a few men, both foreign diplomats living in the city, who saved lives simply by sheltering Jewish people outside of the ghetto but, of course, this did not negate the horrors of the systematic genocide put in place and carried out by nationalistic monsters.&nbsp;Whew, okay, palate cleanser now, yes?&nbsp;We learned about the gruesome past on our tour, but as previously mentioned, we also went to a ruin bar which was extremely cool. Ruin bars are essentially cool, hipster bars erected in the ruins of an old building around town. The first one was the brain-child of two young men in the 2000s who were tired of corporate life and noticed the dilapidated buildings. The cost of renovating these spots were prohibitive, so these men just went to thrift stores and cobbled together cheap furniture and decorations that exemplified Hungary and Budapest to them. Fun fact - did you know that the Rubik’s Cube was invented by a Hungarian? Now you do! There are Rubik’s Cubes in the ruin bar, nestled among disco balls and other ephemera. We felt extremely punk rock and cool just hanging out in a bar like this, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812182/IMG_2085_510a029246.jpg" alt="IMG_2085.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812182/thumbnail_IMG_2085_510a029246.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812184/small_IMG_2085_510a029246.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812184/medium_IMG_2085_510a029246.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812183/large_IMG_2085_510a029246.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>What else can I tell you about Budapest? Oh, the Christmas market! It came up the day before we left the city, and we were thrilled to see one, even in mid-November. We both ate beef goulash with delicious potato dumplings, washed down with mulled wine, and thoroughly enjoyed every bite.&nbsp;<h2>Ljubljana!</h2>From Hungary, we hopped on a train to Slovenia and accidentally ended up being the only ones on the train for a few of the 6-7 hours. We even got to witness the engine being detached a few times, scooting up on a parallel track before being replaced by a new one. Idk, AJ can tell you exactly what was happening as I was mostly reading and popping my head up once or twice interestedly.&nbsp;<blockquote>AJ Note:As soon as we got outside of Budapest the people started to thin out until we were the only ones in our car for an hour or so. The engine was changed a few times during this long journey and at one point not only were we the only ones in the car, the staff was being changed as well as the engine, so we were alone in an empty Hungarian train station and it had very post apocalyptic movie vibes</blockquote>When we reached Lbubljana, it was nighttime and we were wiped out from our extremely long train ride, and the main thing we noticed was the Dragon Bridge. A note on dragons - we have noticed them among our entire European trip: from&nbsp;<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dragestil">Dragestil</a> architecture we noticed in Munich to several cities with extensive dedications to the story of St. George slaying a dragon (Barcelona, Budapest, London). Ljubljana is different, however, calling itself the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.visitljubljana.com/en/visitors/explore/things-to-do/sightseeing/article/ljubljana-city-of-dragons/">City of Dragons</a>. Jason and the Argonauts of Greek mythological fame were said to have encountered the Dragon of Slovenia and slain it during their return to Greece after stealing the golden fleece, and there is an extensive history of a dragon guarding the city of Ljubljana. I’d like to go on record as being pro-dragon. They’re lovely and I’m delighted each time I come across one. Last dragon note (maybe): “Dracul” is Romanian for “dragon.” Dracula’s (fictitious I guess) lineage comes from dragons! Badass, no? I LOVE a folklore crossover.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534645/IMG_1444_58766f2813.jpg" alt="IMG_1444.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534645/thumbnail_IMG_1444_58766f2813.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534647/small_IMG_1444_58766f2813.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534646/medium_IMG_1444_58766f2813.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534646/large_IMG_1444_58766f2813.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Other than very cool dragons, Ljubljana is a fairly small, sleepy town with cobblestone streets and colorful buildings. We mostly stayed to ourselves in our cozy AirBnb here, peppering our days with walks around the city.&nbsp;<h3>Lake Bled</h3>The one Slovenian day trip we took was to Lake Bled - a gorgeous lake with a church in the middle of it, how could we stay away? It took about 90 minutes to drive there and was an easy trek - I’d highly recommend taking a day if you find yourself in the area. We had breakfast (cake and coffee, because vacation) at the Devil Cafe, which was a saucy name but does not reflect the quality or morality of the restaurant and its food, I must say. The cake was a Slovenian cream cake that is well-known, and we both thoroughly enjoyed it.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534707/IMG_1454_73a3c6c52f.jpg" alt="IMG_1454.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534708/thumbnail_IMG_1454_73a3c6c52f.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534709/small_IMG_1454_73a3c6c52f.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534709/medium_IMG_1454_73a3c6c52f.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1671534708/large_IMG_1454_73a3c6c52f.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Let’s talk lake! It was as beautiful as we had hoped it would be, even in the dead of winter when we visited. I’ve heard than in spring, summer, and fall, this lake is covered up by tourists sunbathing, taking boats around the lake, etc. and we were grateful to have the area mostly to ourselves. We ended up hiking up a very very steep but admittedly worth-it hill to the Bled Castle, paid admission, and schlepped further up to take in the gorgeous views of the lake and surrounding area. I’d highly recommend this hike, and if you’re so inclined, you can drive to a parking lot right in front of the castle so you don’t have to do the entire hike as we did.&nbsp;That’s all! Thank you so much for reading yet another blog post about our trip. Please leave us a comment if you’re so inclined - they always make our day!&nbsp;

We loved our time in Budapest and Slovenia - read all about it!

Budapest, Hungary and Ljubljana, Slovenia | Expedition JAWA

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Budapest, Hungary and Ljubljana, Slovenia

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<h2>Opa! (No, I didn’t hear anyone actually say this)</h2>One lesson that I really learned in Athens - don’t judge a city when you arrive at night. Athens’ airport is about 45 minutes from the city center, and AJ and I were excited about the scenic views in the taxi ride, only to find mostly normal if not grubby-looking highways passing boring buildings covered in graffiti. Eh, I lived in Philadelphia for three years so I get it, you know? I read in my research that Athens was generally written off as a place to just fly in and out of by travelers on their way to prettier islands until about twenty years ago. We found pockets of it to be gentrified, but generally, this is a city that is unapologetically grimy but is also beautiful and bustling with life, noise, colors, and smells. We thoroughly enjoyed it.&nbsp;Let me tell you about our cab driver - he was a hoot. I’m generally skeptical of people who lead with charm because my street smarts are non-existent and I assume I’m going to get got, but AJ LOVES these types of people. Our driver gave us some lovely recommendations on places to visit on our future honeymoon and shared general thoughts about Greece before he asked if it was okay to pull over at a gas station so he could use the restroom. I thought “here we go - it will soon be revealed if this guy is cool or nah” but AJ was unconcerned and my weird fears were thankfully unfounded when our driver returned. He even promised he would lower our rate for the time the meter ran while he used the facilities and presented us with two cold bottles of water to say thanks. Officially a good egg.&nbsp;Our newfound confidante, yes I’m still referencing the driver, told us that our Airbnb in the middle of the main food market was sketchy at night and that we should be careful as dudes on drugs wander the streets near us. The market was completely barren except for a few men on our street (!!! - the drug ones probably!!!) and AJ and I hightailed it up to our 9th-floor room.&nbsp;Side note - the elevator in our Athens building was pretty unnerving. There was one door in the hallway that led into the elevator, and that’s it. No elevator door itself, so you as the passenger are watching each hallway door go by as you ascend. Can you picture it? Also, the way it stopped can best be described as abrupt.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812168/IMG_1975_1b90d06d3d.jpg" alt="IMG_1975.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812169/thumbnail_IMG_1975_1b90d06d3d.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812173/small_IMG_1975_1b90d06d3d.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812173/medium_IMG_1975_1b90d06d3d.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812173/large_IMG_1975_1b90d06d3d.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Anywho, our Airbnb itself was fantastic (view from our patio pictured above), you’ll be relieved to know. We had a once-in-a-lifetime view of the Acropolis, and the Parthenon is gorgeously lit up at night. We also came to love the room’s location, as the market turned out to be bustling during the day and honestly not sketchy at all, even the next night. My former therapist would be thrilled to know that I’m learning to trust strangers on my travels! I do believe that as long as you keep a healthy level of awareness, it’s generally a good idea to trust that most folks are innately good. AJ and I have only received kindness, warmth, and help from strangers thus far.&nbsp;<h3>Greek Food and Living Forever</h3>The first morning after our arrival, AJ and I took a food tour around the market and had absolutely excellent food. We began by eating koulouri, warm sesame bagel-type bread, from a bakery to prep our stomachs, and it was delicious. Then, we were treated to Greek coffee. We told our host we would be traveling to Istanbul next, and she conspiratorially shared that we would likely encounter Turkish coffee, but the real origins of that coffee are actually Greek. On that note, Greeks still call Istanbul “Konstantinupoli,” harkening back to Constantinople, which I think speaks to the reverence for ancient history and perhaps a stubbornness to relinquish a sense of ownership over many of the traditions and cultural pieces present in Turkey. Did that sentence make sense?&nbsp;Let’s get an AJ note in here for his take.&nbsp;<blockquote>AJ Note:In my opinion, these two cultures are very similar. Religion overshadows culture as most Muslim governments (as Christian governments did in the past) do in today's society but the people are both wonderful and a lot of their traditions overlap. The 1970's war in Cyprus still has an impact on how there two countries view each other and there is a lot to unpack there so I'll leave that up to you to research and form your own opinion.</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1670168441/IMG_1258_57001f6aa3.jpg" alt="IMG_1258.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1670168442/thumbnail_IMG_1258_57001f6aa3.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1670168443/small_IMG_1258_57001f6aa3.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1670168443/medium_IMG_1258_57001f6aa3.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1670168442/large_IMG_1258_57001f6aa3.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>So back to the food tour: we ate authentic greek yogurt (you can tell it’s for real if you can stick a spoon straight up in it), spanakopita, and visited a spice shop with insanely cheap spices. There we learned about certain islands in Greece that are part of a “blue zone,” in which folks live to be very old and maintain great health. One such herb that contributes to health is ironwort, used to make Greek Mountain tea. This plant can actually reverse the effects of dementia and Alzheimers, and the tea is delicious. We bought, brewed, and drank some ourselves, topped off with Cretan thyme honey. Highly recommend.&nbsp;<h3>Kitty Cats!</h3>There are kitty cats ALL. OVER. ATHENS. I knew this to be true of Istanbul and was delighted to discover furry friends in Athens. They especially like to hang out around one strip of restaurants, casually dodging cars and people to lounge in the corners until they’re acknowledged and fed. They also dot the trail up to the top of the Acropolis and can be found lounging among the Parthenon. It’s absolutely wonderful. They’re all very relaxed and clearly enjoying their Grecian kitty lives.&nbsp;On the topic of the Parthenon, I’m not going to waste my typing breath telling you to go see it. Dear reader, you know about the Parthenon. You know it’s cool. You know it’s massively famous and dripping with ancient history. You know it’s worth checking out. I’m just here to add to the millions of voices sharing that opinion when I tell you it is not, in fact overrated. I’d recommend visiting the Acropolis museum before your trek, and I’d also recommend eating in that museum’s cafe. It was one of the best meals we had in Greece.&nbsp;Alright, let’s keep this party moving to Istanbul! I was a little nervous to visit this city, I’m somewhat embarrassed to admit, because of its reputation for being overwhelming for newcomers, especially Westerners. I was self-conscious about visiting mosques and messing up the etiquette, wondering if and to what degree there might be blatant misogyny directed at me, and hoping I’d feel safe. Turns out, I did and did not feel safe in Istanbul - let’s get into it.&nbsp;<h2>Istanbul, NOT Constantinople!</h2>We flew into Istanbul’s airport and waited for our private car to take us to our hotel in the historic part of town, Sultanahmet. We thought this made us fancy, but as it turns out, it’s not uncommon, as it’s not recommended for travelers to take taxis. Taxis are infamous for overcharging, demanding cash at the last minute, and other questionable practices.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812112/IMG_1326_d346cadda8.jpg" alt="IMG_1326.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812113/thumbnail_IMG_1326_d346cadda8.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812114/small_IMG_1326_d346cadda8.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812114/medium_IMG_1326_d346cadda8.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812113/large_IMG_1326_d346cadda8.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>We hopped into our van and took off for the city, which like Athens, was VERY far from the airport. Because of traffic, it took about 90 minutes to reach our hotel, and hoo boy, that drive was eventful. Our driver didn’t speak a lick of English, which is chill as we were content to gawk around us instead of small talk, and he was buddies with a few other private car drivers. A few times, a similar white van pulled up next to us while we were all driving and rolled his window down to chat with our driver. This cracked us up and did not seem to compromise our safety or anything. Our driver also tried to take some back roads and avoid the major traffic, but generally to no avail. By the time we were nearing our hotel, the roads were so narrow, so full of people, so colorful, and so very loud I was gawking like the unsophisticated traveler I knew I would be. It was a fun time, overall. One thing of note was a bread vendor who set us his small stall in a very narrow median on a busy highway. Classic!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812366/IMG_1301_422e1bbf6c.jpg" alt="IMG_1301.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812366/thumbnail_IMG_1301_422e1bbf6c.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812368/small_IMG_1301_422e1bbf6c.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812367/medium_IMG_1301_422e1bbf6c.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1669812367/large_IMG_1301_422e1bbf6c.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Our hotel was lovely, and we woke up the next day excited for a tour of the Old City, including stops at the Hagia Sophia and the spice market. Our guide was a local man who made the history come to life and ushered us around these ancient buildings while also taking us to some local spots to feed us his recommend cuisine. We had beef kebabs that were out of this world yummy, and AJ tried a local drink - Ayran - that is like salty, thin yogurt. He loved it, though I chose not to partake. Besides eating, our guide took us to the ancient mosque Hagia Sophia, the underground Basilica Cistern, and to the grand spice market.&nbsp;We especially enjoyed the spice market, where all kinds of colors, smells, tastes, and sounds abound. We met one shopkeeper who hooked us up with a spice tour, and AJ bought a fancy brass spice grinder and some strawberry tea that we had sampled. It was scrumptious, and the shopping experience overall was a can’t-miss event.&nbsp;<h3>Let’s Get Wild</h3>I told you our Turkey story gets a little wild, right? Well here we go - after our long morning and early afternoon of touring, AJ and I went for a siesta in our hotel, only to be woken up by persistent phone calls from his parents. As it turned out, there was a tragic bombing in a major shopping area of Istanbul that we thankfully missed because we were napping. It was across the river from our hotel and the old city, so we were never near the threat, but its unexpectedness and proximity still rattled us. Six people were tragically killed in this senseless violence, and you can read more about that bombing&nbsp;<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2022_Istanbul_bombing">here</a>.&nbsp;Whew. Believe it or not, that’s not what ended up shaking me up the most. What really got me is not the unpredictable violence, although that certainly wasn’t ideal. I was appalled to learn that the Turkish government unabashedly censors the internet of its inhabitants. This means that after the bombing took place, I suddenly was unable to access any social media, any international news sources about the bombing, and Wikipedia as a whole. I learned through some frantic private browser Googling that many Turkish folks simply use VPNs to navigate the government’s blocked sites, which vary by the day by the way, but it’s illegal to download a VPN. I actually already had one installed as it’s how AJ and I stream shows while abroad, but for whatever reason, our VPN refused to load while we were in Istanbul.I don’t want to disparage Turkey as a country, or Istanbul, or put any of you off from wanting to visit. Istanbul was a gorgeous, historic, and vibrant city that is well worth visiting. I just urge you, readers, to keep internet censorship in mind while you plan your travels. It surprised and dismayed me, and I could have put a few VPN settings or something in place beforehand to mitigate this discomfort.<h3>Back to the Fun Things!</h3>Thanks for letting me share the drama, readers! Outside of the bombing and the inability to access informational internet content about it, Istanbul was great.&nbsp;The day after that happened and we holed up and ordered pizza to our hotel, AJ and I emerged ready to explore the city a bit more while staying out of the busiest areas in case something else happened (nothing else happened!). We grabbed food at a yummy restaurant and later found a rooftop bar where we sipped drinks and listened to the evening Adhan, or call to prayer. It’s beautiful to hear in the city - muezzins from each mosque come on air to call practicing Muslims to pray five times a day, and their voices can be heard harmoniously overlapping. It was magical to watch the sunset and listen to the melodious and pious sounds of the city completing its daily routine.&nbsp;That’s all, folks! Next up, we headed to Budapest and Ljubljana, and I’m excited to tell you all about it soon. Please leave us a comment! Much love, Jen &amp; AJ &lt;3

We visited Athens and Istanbul - two cities with some interesting and distinct similarities and differences, and lots of kitty cats roaming about! Read all about our trip.

Athens, Greece & Istanbul, Turkey | Expedition JAWA

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Athens, Greece and Istanbul, Turkey

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Read all about the final leg of our Italian adventure - Naples, the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, Rome, and Sicily!

Italy Part 3 - The Amalfi Coast, Rome, & Sicily | Expedition JAWA

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Italy Part 3 - The Amalfi Coast, Rome, & Sicily

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We are currently in Sorrento, on the Amalfi coast in Southern Italy. This city and the entire area is even more stunning than we could have imagined! AJ booked us a boat tour for our first full day, which involved swimming in the Mediterranean, which is chilly, spending time in Positano and Amalfi, eating tomatoes and mozzarella, and sipping limoncello. Look - it’s a difficult life, but someone has to do it! Ha. We were on this all-day tour with two other couples who were all lovely, and we all agreed this was a fantastic way to spend a day. AJ and I kept saying how inherently romantic everything was.&nbsp;After rinsing off the salt from the Mediterranean and changing, AJ found an Italian restaurant (at random, I later found out). They told us to put our names down and wait about 30 minutes, which we spent at an Irish pub nearby with a lovely, boisterous Italian man singing Dean Martin to us (When the mooooon hits your eye…).&nbsp;When we returned to the restaurant, our table was in a room full of people and music, with a guitarist and a local singer crooning. We quickly realized every other person in the room, about forty of them, were all there together to celebrate a couple’s wedding anniversary. About ten minutes after we arrived, they all filed out, leaving us alone. The waiter kept joking with us that we was trying to keep things romantic. The food was absolutely incredible, and AJ and I kept talking about how lovely the day was. Then, one of the couples from our boat trip walked in - wild! They sat next to us and we were all thrilled to get to chat more.&nbsp;Then, the guitarist came back into the room and sang some of my favorite love songs, older numbers from the 50s and 60s. When he started singing my favorite Beatles song, “All My Loving,” I fully swooned. We left smiling and came back to the Airbnb, and after I took off my shoes, I heard AJ calling from the living room “hey, come here.” I wondered why he was in the living room of our Airbnb, but quickly found him on one knee and OMG WE GOT ENGAGEDDDDDDDD.&nbsp;Turns out, this sneaky man had the ring the entire time on this trip - that’s three months! It was in his backpack! When we were home last week for his sister’s wedding, we saw both of our families and they all kept the secret!! I’m still surprised.&nbsp;What a blessing it is to be able to be on this trip, to have such loving (and sneaky!) family and friends, and to have each other. My cup is overflowing!

Read our engagement story <3 you know you want to!

OMG We Are Engaged!!!! | Expedition JAWA

OMG We Are Engaged!!!! 

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For our second jaunt around Italy, we went to Bologna, Florence, and the Tuscan countryside. Read all about it!

Italy Part 2 - Bologna, Florence, Tuscany | Expedition JAWA

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Italy Part 2 - Bologna, Florence, Tuscany

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<h2>Una Nuova Famiglia - A New Family</h2>So! We left Germany tired and honestly a little hungover from Oktoberfest but very excited to head to northern Italy to meet AJ’s cousins. His great-grandfather’s sister’s granddaughter, a lovely woman named Maria (hi, Maria I hope you are reading this, we love you!!) has been in touch with AJ’s mom (these two women are second cousins…I think) on Facebook. Georgia (AJ’s mom, hi Georgia I hope you are reading this, we love you!!) put us in touch, and Maria and her husband Patrizio graciously hosted us for an entire week.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863293/IMG_0646_1e618d18b1.jpg" alt="IMG_0646.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863294/thumbnail_IMG_0646_1e618d18b1.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863295/small_IMG_0646_1e618d18b1.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863294/medium_IMG_0646_1e618d18b1.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863294/large_IMG_0646_1e618d18b1.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Maria and Patrizio live in Gozzano, Italy, a small town about an hour west of Milan in Raggione Piemonte (the Piedmont region). Maria speaks English extremely well, which is a true blessing since my Italian is extremely limited and rusty and AJ’s was non-existent going into this trip. She works as an accountant but has a degree in hospitality, and her inherent warmth and generosity make her an above-average host. Being from the Southeastern US myself, I’m no stranger to warm hospitality, but Maria and her family took it to a new level. Their daughters Soraya and Veronica were also around to help host us, and between these three women especially, we ate like kings, saw all the gorgeous sites of the area, and felt like we were at home.&nbsp;One thing we especially enjoyed at their house was their two dogs, Bette and Ettore. Bette is a small girl, I think close to a Mountain Cur, with a beautiful brindled coat, and Ettore is a much younger, much bigger purebred hunting dog and while I don’t know his breed, I know he is 100% a good boy. We loved hanging out with animals for the week!&nbsp;<h3>Mangia, Mangia!</h3><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863288/IMG_0692_7528a46e31.jpg" alt="IMG_0692.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863288/thumbnail_IMG_0692_7528a46e31.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863290/small_IMG_0692_7528a46e31.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863289/medium_IMG_0692_7528a46e31.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863289/large_IMG_0692_7528a46e31.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>My favorite food in the entire world is Italian food, and after wiener schnitzel in Germany, as good as it is, I was READY for some pasta and Italian fare. Maria is an incredible cook, and every day we were treated to Italian meals. Every single day, she makes lunch and dinner as follows: light charcuterie on the table as everyone sits down along with fresh bread every day, a first course of delicious pasta, a second, main course of some kind of meat and veggies, fruit and/or sweets for dessert, then everyone has a moka to wash it down (more on that in a minute). Everything was gourmet-level and beyond delicious. Wow.&nbsp;What is moka, you may be asking? Unlike American mochas, which are coffee with some chocolate, Italian mokas are similar to espressos, but not quite as intense. AJ understands more about how these are made, so I’ll defer to him and hope he adds an AJ note. I’m loving those, aren’t y’all? I will share that I was under the impression we had been drinking true espresso all week, and having an actual espresso in Milan felt like someone kicked me in the face.&nbsp;<blockquote>AJ Note:In a Moka coffee pot, the water goes into the bottom of the container with finely ground espresso beans in a tray right above the water. Then the catch pot is attached over the base and when placed on the stove pressure builds in the base and pushes the water up through the grounds to make coffee. It's served in espresso cups but is much less potent then espresso brewed with a high pressure machine.</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863296/IMG_0667_0e8b4b3789.jpg" alt="IMG_0667.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863297/thumbnail_IMG_0667_0e8b4b3789.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863299/small_IMG_0667_0e8b4b3789.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863298/medium_IMG_0667_0e8b4b3789.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1666863298/large_IMG_0667_0e8b4b3789.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Other wonderful food we had was pizza at a cute restaurant called La Stangata. What does la stangata mean in English? The Sting, that’s right, like the Robert Redford movie! I was tickled at the choice this local pizzeria made to honor an American caper movie from the 70’s. Even funnier is that they had an “American pizza,” which came with french fries and some hot dog-like sausage. We died laughing and chose not to partake.&nbsp;Patrizio doesn’t speak English, and I found out how little Italian I really speak, but he and I connected through the phrase “pizza italiana,” which is to say that I hope I expressed how excited I was to try and how much I enjoyed eating authentic Italian pizza in Italy. It just hits different.&nbsp;<h3>Beautiful Sites</h3><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035136/IMG_1533_f23cf40888.jpg" alt="IMG_1533.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035137/thumbnail_IMG_1533_f23cf40888.jpg 245w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035138/small_IMG_1533_f23cf40888.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035138/medium_IMG_1533_f23cf40888.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035137/large_IMG_1533_f23cf40888.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Gozzano is close to one of the many gorgeous lakes (you probably heard of Lake Como) in Northern Italy - Lake Orta. We spent one day traveling to the island San Giulio, and got to see the Cathedral that houses Saint Giulio himself. I was…not prepared to see a skeleton in a church, even when Maria prepped us! He did have a metal mask on, to be fair. I must say that churches generally in Europe are just more gorgeous, dramatic, and thoroughly decorated than many in the US. I suspect it’s the Catholic influence versus the more staid Anglican / Baptist iterations.&nbsp;We also ventured with Veronica and her boyfriend Francesco to two other islands on Lake Maggiore, Isola Pescatori and Isola Bella. They were both as beautiful as promised (bella = pretty in English) and we thoroughly enjoyed the boat rides and meandering around, drinking in the stunning scenery. We were close to Switzerland, and the alps were always in the background everywhere we went. If ever you’re planning to visit Lake Como, we’d highly recommend venturing out to some of these other lakes as they’re less crowded, less expensive, and just as beautiful.&nbsp;<h2>Milano!</h2>After staying for a week, we reluctantly left Maria and Patrizio’s house to head for Venice by way of Milan. They drove us up to Milan and we had a fun day wandering around, gawking at the Duomo and touring La Scala.&nbsp;Fun fact - did y’all know that “duomo,” means “cathedral,” NOT dome? I always associated the word with THE Duomo in Florence, called “Il Duomo,” in Italian. That church has a famous, gigantic dome, but turns out that’s just a coincidence. It’s called The Duomo because it’s the biggest church. “Domo,” is Italian for “dome,” meaning that the aforementioned church in Florence is really a duomo with a domo. Don’t shoot the messenger.&nbsp;Back to Milan - if you decide to visit, AJ and I recommend purchasing tickets for La Scala and the Duomo ahead of time. The lines for ticketholders outside of the Duomo were massive. Also, don’t forget to wear something appropriate when entering an Italian church! No shorts or spaghetti straps are allowed.&nbsp;To get between the two sites, we walked through the stunning Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a high-end shopping mall with frescoes and a lovely ceiling. Highly recommend.&nbsp;We also walked around the imposing Sforzesco Castle, which honestly, I don’t know much about. It was absolutely worth doing.After a wonderful day of exploring the fashion capital of the world, AJ and I bid a sad farewell to Maria and Patrizio before hopping on a train to Venice. Little did we know - the adventure was just beginning.&nbsp;<h2>Venezia!&nbsp;</h2>We arrived in Venice after the sun had gone down. Wait, I’d like to point out that we didn’t arrive in Venice proper. If you didn’t know, Venice is an island, and it takes a bit of doing to get onto that island. We were staying on the mainland in an area called Mestre, so that’s really where we arrived. The train station, at least at night, was somewhat sketchy, to be honest. We had booked a Hilton Garden Inn hotel room, which is always a reliable go-to hotel, but we needed to figure out how to get to it first.&nbsp;Funny enough, there were almost zero taxis coming to ferry people to their destinations from the train station. We waited several minutes, and to make matters worse, once the first one pulled up, women from what one assumes is the end of the line started screaming that the line was backward and it was their right to claim that taxi, thank you very much. This happened multiple times, so AJ made the executive decision that we would take a bus. Okay, not ideal with our clunky bags, but no problem. Twenty-ish minutes later, the bus arrived and we reached our stop, only to find that our stop was a 20-minute walk from our hotel in the middle of nowhere. At night. We plastered smiles on our faces, determined to make a story out of it, and made it five minutes down the road until we realized Google maps wanted us to hop a closed gate and traipse through the woods to get to our hotel. Yeah, no. The circuitous detour involved walking along, then across (!) a few highways, then finally a sketchy (at least at night) pedestrian bridge delivered us to Hilton. Thankfully, we lived to tell the (admittedly funny now) tale. Travel days, am I right?&nbsp;We went on to spend two days in Venice. For the first, we hit all the touristy stops and were not vibing fully with the city. I had been once before with my family about ten years ago, and all my memories of Venice were full of romance - the gondolas, the floating city, the haunting masks in the local shop windows. This first day, however, was a little more crowded, getting lost but not in a fun way, and trying and failing to find an open restaurant to get a little pasta fix.&nbsp;One thing we did enjoy very much was taking a private gondola ride. Those of you who haven’t been to Venice, and even those who have a while back (I fully forgot this detail myself) may not realize that the picturesque black gondolas aren’t the main mode of transportation. I thought I hazily remembered taking one to a restaurant during my previous visit, but the gondolieri (highly-skilled drivers wearing stripes) will only take you on a pre-determined route that lasts about 30 minutes. These trips are a bit pricy at 80 euros for the two of us, but we decided to splurge and enjoyed seeing the sights, being transported down narrow canals, and marveling at the ease with which our gondoliero navigated the boat. We also wandered into a chocolate store this day and bought several limoncello chocolates - they had small bursts of the famous digestif drink inside milk chocolate, YUM.On our second day in Venice, AJ prepared us by plotting out the day, and we had much more fun. We had breakfast at a great local place. Side note - Italians often eat just pastries in the morning, if anything, with their espresso. Lunch and dinner are much bigger meals, so breakfast is light and sweet. That said, we helped ourselves to cornetti (Italian croissants, often stuffed with Nutella, yum!) and coffee. Then, we scouted out a vantage point from which to see where the gondolas are repaired - very cool. For lunch, we had traditional small sandwiches with different combinations of fish and cheese, then we took a glass workshop.&nbsp;<blockquote>AJ Note:Here's the list of places we ate at or visited that we recommend<ol style="list-style-type:decimal;"><li>Pasticceria Toletta - A local pastry shop with a great selection and a local vibe.</li><li>Cantine del Vino già Schiavi - Great local place for the typical Venice snack Cicchetti. These are small bread pieces topped with everything from fish to cheese to cured meats. Highly recommend a variety plate and glass of wine.</li><li>Squero di San Trovaso - Right down the street from Cantine del Vino is the place where all the gondolas are restored and repaired. You can get your Cicchetti and wine togo and walk down to watch some work being done while you snack</li><li>Chiesa di San Pantalon - This a unassuming church from the outside but has one of the most amazing frescos on the ceiling that I've ever seen. Plus it's free to get in.</li></ol></blockquote>&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:25%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035204/IMG_0766_b9103687cb.jpg" alt="IMG_0766.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035205/thumbnail_IMG_0766_b9103687cb.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035206/small_IMG_0766_b9103687cb.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035206/medium_IMG_0766_b9103687cb.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1667035205/large_IMG_0766_b9103687cb.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Our glass workshop, before you picture us blowing actual glass with a long tool, was actually all about melting glass rods in different colors and forming them into little shapes. It was extremely fun and all overseen by our Italian glassmaking expert, a very sarcastic, very laid-back man whose office view often included singing gondolieri. We had a blast making our animals and figurines and not burning ourselves (thankfully!).&nbsp;Okay, there you have it! We had an incredible time in northern Italy, and stay tuned for more tales of our Italian adventures - there are many!

We stayed with family in Gozzano, Italy, visited Milan and Venice, and generally loved our lives! Read more about the fantastic start to our Italian trip.

Italy Part 1: Gozzano, Milan, and Venice

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Italy Part 1 - Gozzano, Milan, and Venice

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<h2>Munich - Eins, Zwei, Drei, Gsuffa!</h2>After begrudgingly leaving the sleepy, gorgeous land of Spain and taking a million trains in a million days, we arrived in Munich bleary-eyed but excited for Oktoberfest. We stayed at the Hotel Imperial, which was a ways outside of the city center and honestly, wasn’t all that great. Our room was…perfectly fine. Hey, lots of people attend Oktoberfest (called Wiesn locally), and that’s especially true in 2022 - the year marking the return of Wiesn after two years of COVID-related cancellation. We were relieved but not surprised that the German efficiency stereotype seemed to ring true for their public transportation, so the fairly remote hotel location wasn’t an issue. The room was just a little small, the whole place was a little smelly, and everything was a little dated. We took what we could get!After settling in, our first order of business was securing AJ’s lederhosen. That said, it’s time for your favorite segment:<h2>Everything You Need to Know About Trachten (AKA What to Wear to Oktoberfest When You’re an American)</h2>So, you want to find an outfit for Oktoberfest? Are you one of those travelers who worries about balancing cultural authenticity and shameless tourism when you travel? No worries, us too. We wanted to find some legit outfits to wear to the beer tents that weren’t 1) a million dollars 2) obvious, cheap-looking Halloween outfits 3) cute, because aren’t beer maids generally very cute?&nbsp;For trachten, or traditional Bavarian clothing often worn to Oktoberfest, women typically wear dresses with a little half-blouse underneath and an apron on top (dirndls), and men wear leather shorts with suspenders, socks, button-down shirts, and shapeless shepherd hats (no shade). There are countless places to buy these both online and in person in Munich, but be ready to pay. I bought my dirndl on German Amazon way back in Belgium and the lovely Adrien let me ship it overnight to his mom's house. Miracle of miracles: my dress fit perfectly! Remind me to rant about the difference in US/UK/EU sizes and inconsistent women’s sizing later, thanks. AJ decided to throw the dice and find his lederhosen at a trachten shop we passed, and thankfully they had absolutely everything he needed. We enjoyed browsing leather pant options while a group of Italian men was preening (there’s just no other word for it) and trying on the most dapper outfit combinations.&nbsp;<blockquote>AJ Note:I got my laderhosen from an Oktoberfest shop (these are all over near the fairground) and paid around $130 for the whole outfit. It was leather, and seemed to be second hand but it got the job done and didn't break the bank. If you want high quality, authentic stuff there are shops in the Marienplatz area with very nice outfits, but expect to pay $300-500 for a whole setup.</blockquote><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973441/IMG_0496_81f2f1b539.jpg" alt="IMG_0496.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973441/thumbnail_IMG_0496_81f2f1b539.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973444/small_IMG_0496_81f2f1b539.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973443/medium_IMG_0496_81f2f1b539.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973442/large_IMG_0496_81f2f1b539.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Oh! Please spare a moment of appreciation for my beer earrings! I bought them on Etsy at least a year ago and saved them for this exact moment.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973714/IMG_0549_c01998d43b.jpg" alt="IMG_0549.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973715/thumbnail_IMG_0549_c01998d43b.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973716/small_IMG_0549_c01998d43b.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973716/medium_IMG_0549_c01998d43b.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973715/large_IMG_0549_c01998d43b.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Having secured our lederhosen, we hopped back on the bus and scooted to Marienplatz, a beautiful, central square where you can see the beautiful Gothic city hall building (Rathaus, lol) and listen to bells from several churches compete for your attention. We sat down at a restaurant in the square and ate a crispy pork knuckle, which was AMAZING, weiner schnitzel that came with yummy potatoes and cranberry sauce, and some vinegar-based sauerkraut salad with chunks of bacon in it.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973436/IMG_0451_a37305c48c.jpg" alt="IMG_0451.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973437/thumbnail_IMG_0451_a37305c48c.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973439/small_IMG_0451_a37305c48c.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973438/medium_IMG_0451_a37305c48c.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973438/large_IMG_0451_a37305c48c.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h3>German Side Note</h3>We found that speaking German in Munich was not at all essential, as everyone speaks impeccable English. However, we always like to at least attempt to learn a few words. After watching a few Youtube videos and consulting articles, I began to realize the beautiful utility of the word “bitte” (bit-tuh). It means “please,” “here you go,” “pardon me,” “you’re welcome,” “go ahead,” “may I help you,” and “yes, please.”&nbsp;Theoretically, this is a possible German conversation:*Jen enters coffee shop*Shopowner: “Bitte?”Jen: “Coffee, bitte.”S: “Bitte.”J: “Danke schon.”S: “Bitte.”&nbsp;Fun, right? Learn this word and you’re 11/10ths of the way to fluency, by my calculations.&nbsp;<h2>Where’s the Wiesn??</h2>Alright, that’s enough buildup: let me tell you about Oktoberfest itself. Admission is free for everyone, but if you want a dedicated seat at one of the benches in the official tents, you’ll need a reservation, and those can be tricky to get. We found an “in” named Ava - (hi Ava we love you!!), a friend of a friend we met at a wedding earlier this year. She graciously helped connect us with a group of her coworkers (in Amsterdam, mind you), a group of Americans who go annually. We were so fortunate to not only meet her, but to also be able to sit with that group of wonderful folks in the tents.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973443/IMG_0554_15828a135b.jpg" alt="IMG_0554.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973444/thumbnail_IMG_0554_15828a135b.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973446/small_IMG_0554_15828a135b.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973445/medium_IMG_0554_15828a135b.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973445/large_IMG_0554_15828a135b.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>On the first day, the group met at the Ochsenbraterei (no, I cannot pronounce it) tent. The weather was chilly and cloudy, so AJ and I piled on the layers, though we were thrilled to find out that the tents are heated inside. Our group’s reservation was for 11 am, and we were one of the first groups in the tent that day. Our tickets included two beer vouchers and one food voucher per person. Each beer is served ice cold in a 1-liter stein and there isn’t any beer variety, though you can order a “radler,” which is half beer, half lemon soda, 100% delicious. I highly recommend radlers to those looking to not make a fool out of themselves. The food was wonderful, too. We ordered roast chicken and käsespätzle, which is basically mac and cheese and is delicious. The second day, the group convened at the Hofbräu-Festzelt tent, which was full of young, drunk Americans and was much more of a party atmosphere than the first tent. Being old and stodgy, we preferred the quieter tent, but to each their own!I know you have questions - let me see…bathrooms were readily available within each tent and were shockingly clean. Yes, we did order and eat some pretzels and they were very yummy, but honestly, I’m still an Auntie Anne’s stan.&nbsp;<blockquote>AJ Note:Make sure you have coins for the bathrooms. They are clean because people are assigned to keep them that way and you will see bowls for tips.</blockquote><h2>Non-Oktoberfest Fun in Munich</h2>Outside of Oktoberfest, which we could only physically handle for two days, AJ and I enjoyed exploring Munich. Here are some sights and experiences in no particular order: &nbsp;<ul><li>Mailing stuff home (our third box of souvenirs if you were curious) was the cheapest and the most efficient process. Previously, we’ve sent boxes to my parents from Edinburgh, Scotland, and London, England, and even though there was a slight language barrier in Munich, German efficiency made the process streamlined and easy.</li><li>Don’t sleep on a sofa bed. Did anyone see that one Seinfeld episode when Elaine goes to Florida with Jerry to visit his parents and she has to sleep on a sofa bed? Well, it’s actually as uncomfortable as she says it is. We are officially (at 28 and 32 respectively) too old for that shit.&nbsp;</li><li>If you like rococo architecture, you must visit the Asam Kirche in Munich. It’s a baroque, gold, frothy, Catholic masterpiece that took our breath away. It was a private endeavor, built by two brothers who wanted the best church in town. &nbsp;Bonus points if you spot the VERY dramatic tableau of Death trying to snip a child’s life thread right next to a confessional right when you enter.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973450/IMG_1484_9ad6e03123.jpg" alt="IMG_1484.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973451/thumbnail_IMG_1484_9ad6e03123.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973453/small_IMG_1484_9ad6e03123.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973452/medium_IMG_1484_9ad6e03123.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973452/large_IMG_1484_9ad6e03123.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure> &nbsp;<ul><li>If you decide to see St. Peter’s church, you’re going to climb a lot of stairs. A LOT. Don’t be self-conscious, however, as absolutely everyone is huffing and puffing by the time they reach the top. Be warned, also, that there is a teeny tiny ledge (by my standards) to stand on once you reach the top. Those petrified of heights, beware!</li><li>The English Garden is lovely, and yes, people can surf in part of it. It’s worth watching.</li></ul><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973450/IMG_1490_25301c699f.jpg" alt="IMG_1490.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973451/thumbnail_IMG_1490_25301c699f.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973452/small_IMG_1490_25301c699f.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973452/medium_IMG_1490_25301c699f.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973451/large_IMG_1490_25301c699f.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h2>Neuschwanstein Castle - WOW</h2>After a few days of wandering Munich, AJ and I rented a car and drove out to see the Neuschwanstein Castle.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973452/IMG_1503_61b93bc0dc.jpg" alt="IMG_1503.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973453/thumbnail_IMG_1503_61b93bc0dc.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973454/small_IMG_1503_61b93bc0dc.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973454/medium_IMG_1503_61b93bc0dc.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973454/large_IMG_1503_61b93bc0dc.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>A little background: King Ludwig II (known as the Mad King, the Swan King, and the Fairytale King, what a guy) was an…eccentric individual who grew up isolated and obsessed over Richard Wagner’s operas. He grew up, became king at 19, and dedicated his life to building very big, very large castles that all paid homage to Wagner. Interestingly, Ludwig and Wagner actually met several times, as they were contemporaries, and some say that Ludwig’s devotion was actually homosexual longing. Whether that’s true or the relationship was platonic is lost to history, but I’d recommend reading some of their letters so you can decide for yourself. Ludwig gave Wagner (a notorious gambler with lots of debt) all kinds of support, though Wagner eventually had to be exiled from the country after crossing the wrong people too many times. Ludwig also died under mysterious circumstances. He allegedly drowned the night after being deposed, but he was known to be a strong swimmer and the water was waist-deep where he allegedly drowned himself. Suspicious.&nbsp;Okay, now that you’re caught up on one of my favorite royals, let’s chat about Neuschwanstein, one of the castles (arguably the most famous) built by Ludwig II that incorporates the work of Wagner. To visit, you must purchase tickets, and we recommend doing so ahead of time. We showed up, schlepped 30 minutes up a mountain, and realized we had to wait 2.5 hours until we were able to gain admission. Also, these folks take admission times very seriously. You’re allowed into the main courtyard starting 45 minutes before your specific admission time, but you must sit and wait until the very second of your ticket’s admission time before automated turnstiles let you in to begin your tour. Once your admission time comes, you have all of 5 minutes to get through those turnstiles. It’s a serious business.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973451/IMG_1499_402db3e799.jpg" alt="IMG_1499.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973452/thumbnail_IMG_1499_402db3e799.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973454/small_IMG_1499_402db3e799.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973453/medium_IMG_1499_402db3e799.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1664973452/large_IMG_1499_402db3e799.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>The tour is more than worth the nitpicky entrance information, and we’d consider it a can’t-miss attraction.&nbsp;Okay, that’s all folks! Thanks for reading about our time in Germany. Next up - the long-awaited trip to Italy!

We had the best time in Munich, Germany. We spent two days at Oktoberfest and a few more exploring the city. 

Munich - Oktoberfest and More! | Expedition JAWA

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Munich - Oktoberfest and More!

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We had the best time visiting Portugal and Spain. Read all about our adventures in Lisbon, Seville, Madrid and Barcelona! 

Portugal and Spain | Expedition JAWA

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Portugal and Spain

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<h2>Gay Paris</h2>I keep saying “Buon Soir” to all the cows and buildings that pass by as AJ drives me around the French countryside, though it is not evening and no one outside the car can hear me. There’s something about the French language that demands practice and self-consciousness. I’m constantly thinking about that damned back-of-the-throat “r” sound. Though my scant French phrases barely scratch the surface of the beautiful language, I did find that practicing pronunciation and eyeballing a few words before visiting made our second trip to Paris more rewarding. However, I’m jumping around; let’s start at the beginning!Our fantastic Belgian hosts Amy Caroline and Adrien packed up to drive us to Paris. AJ and I were thrilled to have not one, but two French-speaking sophisticates with us, as the last time we went to Paris (in an 18-hour fever dream), we acutely felt the depth of our faux pas of not learning a few phrases.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716227/IMG_0092_3a5350600b.jpg" alt="IMG_0092.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716228/thumbnail_IMG_0092_3a5350600b.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716230/small_IMG_0092_3a5350600b.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716229/medium_IMG_0092_3a5350600b.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716229/large_IMG_0092_3a5350600b.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>After finding free parking outside the city and taking the metro in, we dropped our bags off at our hotel and began our Parisian adventure in earnest. First on our agenda was food, and we found a local cafe that offered a “meal of the day” that included delicious, salty pork in gravy and the creamiest mashed potatoes I’ve ever had. Then we wandered through the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.jardindesplantesdeparis.fr/en/activities-events/galleries-gardens-zoo-libraries/jardin-plantes-garden-plants-2921">Jardins des Plantes</a>, which was beautiful, and I dragged everyone to&nbsp;<a href="https://www.shakespeareandcompany.com/">Shakespeare and Company</a>.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716274/IMG_0104_6564746ee9.jpg" alt="IMG_0104.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716275/thumbnail_IMG_0104_6564746ee9.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716276/small_IMG_0104_6564746ee9.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716276/medium_IMG_0104_6564746ee9.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716275/large_IMG_0104_6564746ee9.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Dear readers, Shakespeare and Company is a historic bookstore in the Latin Quarter of Paris. The current building is the second, opening in 1951, but has hosted and been a literary paradise for such esteemed writers as James Baldwin, Richard Wright, Allen Ginsberg, William Burroughs, Anaïs Nin, and far too many other tres cool people to list here. They also have a famous rule that anyone can sleep in the building as long as they read a book a day, help at the shop for a few hours a day, and produce a one-page autobiography. We did have to wait in line to get in and peruse the books, but a lovely cellist serenaded us and the wait was only about 20 minutes. Once inside, the store is indeed somewhat cramped even with the limits, but still cozy and glamorous and absolutely worth seeing. I’d recommend having a book in mind to purchase if you want to leave with something, as genuinely perusing is a bit difficult. I bought a copy of&nbsp;<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Down-Paris-London-George-Orwell-ebook/dp/B003K16PAU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YKZGR37P0IXB&amp;keywords=down+and+out+in+paris+and+london&amp;qid=1662714823&amp;sprefix=down+and+out+in%2Caps%2C500&amp;sr=8-1">Down and Out in Paris and London</a> by George Orwell, which I’m very excited to read. The back mentions that Orwell slept in doss houses in London, which AJ and I learned about during our Jack the Ripper tour. The cheapest sleeping accommodations in doss houses were simply draping oneself over a horizontal rope, which is wild, to say the least.&nbsp;After book shopping, I found and purchased another small souvenir related to one of my favorite books,&nbsp;<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Little-Prince-Antoine-Saint-Exupery-ebook/dp/B008QYT7DI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2Q7NJM6NGJB8X&amp;keywords=the+little+princ&amp;qid=1662714800&amp;sprefix=the+%2Caps%2C1145&amp;sr=8-1">The Little Prince</a> by Antoine de Saint-Exupery. If you haven’t read it, please do, reader. It’s a children’s book with profound things to say about adulthood, purpose, and how to live. There’s also a movie version of the book with Gene Wilder, and that’s enough said about that. I trust you’re bought into it now.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716265/IMG_0101_d23d2f0dfe.jpg" alt="IMG_0101.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716266/thumbnail_IMG_0101_d23d2f0dfe.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716269/small_IMG_0101_d23d2f0dfe.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716267/medium_IMG_0101_d23d2f0dfe.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716267/large_IMG_0101_d23d2f0dfe.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Shopping aside, we ambled from the Notre Dame through to the Louvre, which was a gorgeous walk. We took our time and drank two beers each, then split two bottles of wine between the four of us, so we were feeling la vie en rose, you know what I’m saying? The walk was leisurely, drinking in the sights of beautiful Paris and resting on the many ponts (bridges) across the Seine.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716270/IMG_0107_290fb77458.jpg" alt="IMG_0107.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716271/thumbnail_IMG_0107_290fb77458.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716273/small_IMG_0107_290fb77458.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716272/medium_IMG_0107_290fb77458.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716271/large_IMG_0107_290fb77458.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>AJ and I booked outrageously expensive tickets on Viator for a Seine river cruise and Moulin Rouge tickets that night, so we left AC and Adriene to scoot to our cruise. I said scoot, and scoot I meant. Now, reader, if you’ve met me you likely know that I am not a coordinated nor an athletic person, and taking electric scooters while a tee-bit soused was…a choice. I almost hit several cars with my person, and I screamed the entire time, much to the amusement of onlookers, but AJ and I made it alive to Place de Sydney in time to embark on our river cruise. I’m not going to link to our tickets, because they were a bit overpriced and on a very large touristy boat, but I do recommend taking a boat along the Seine at nighttime with a smaller more intimate group. The spot we left from was nestled right beneath the Eiffel Tower, and we got to see her sparkle several times from our vantage point on the boat. The cruise was romantic, to say the least, even though we were just two of hundreds of people crammed onto the benches. Still mostly worth it.After the cruise was the Moulin Rouge, and oh man, I naively didn’t realize these women were going to be topless. I swear I’m not a prude, but one has to prepare oneself for bare breasts, no? Maybe my American puritanicalism is showing. After realizing that boobs were happening, I thoroughly enjoyed the show. The inside of the Moulin Rouge is stunning, it evokes the lushness of the Baz Luhrmann movie and the saucy history that harkens back to La Belle Epoque. I felt like Toulouse Lautrec could be sitting a few tables over, watching the ladies can-can. The show itself was four acts, each bookmarked by acrobatic performances, which was AJ’s favorite part (allegedly). The women were glamorous and adorned with feathers and sparkles if not tops, and my former danceline-self was loving it, though the acts themselves were quite cheesy. My favorite was the actual can-can, which came at the end of Act 4. Our tickets included a half bottle of champagne each, which meant four bottles for our eight-person table. Some people didn’t drink theirs, so we helped ourselves and had a grand time overall.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716277/IMG_1199_f2afcda69f.jpg" alt="IMG_1199.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716277/thumbnail_IMG_1199_f2afcda69f.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716279/small_IMG_1199_f2afcda69f.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716279/medium_IMG_1199_f2afcda69f.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716278/large_IMG_1199_f2afcda69f.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>After the Moulin Rouge, I masterfully hailed a taxi, which I only mentioned because AJ was shocked I saw it and grabbed it so quickly, and I take praise where it is given. We stumbled into our hotel room ready for sleep.&nbsp;The next day, we groaned at the daylight pouring in because, you guessed it, we were hungover. As it turns out, all champagne and no water means you’re going to have a bad time. AC and Adriene found us a lovely cafe for brunch, and we ate well: freshly squeezed juice, roasted potatoes, crispy chicken, scrambled eggs, a mixed salad, and all-you-can-eat pan au chocolats. YUM.&nbsp;After eating, we jumped on electric bikes and rode them along the Seine. The route included a tunnel filled with artwork, which was a fun way to break up the 45-minute ride. We ended up at La Palais Garnier, which I had to see. AJ and I ventured inside to look for Gerard Butler, I mean the Phantom of the Opera, I mean the history of the building. Wow, the opera house lived up to its reputation of grandeur and glitz. The theater itself is all plush red velvet and ornate gold chandeliers and decorations. It was the picture of a glitzy theater where the top echelons of society go to be seen in their fancy boxes, and I’m so glad we got to peek inside.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716281/IMG_1211_623fffe838.jpg" alt="IMG_1211.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716281/thumbnail_IMG_1211_623fffe838.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716284/small_IMG_1211_623fffe838.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716283/medium_IMG_1211_623fffe838.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716282/large_IMG_1211_623fffe838.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Afterward, we joined back up with our friends and walked through the Galleries de Lafayette, a giant shopping mall housed in a building with a stunning Art Deco dome. It was stunning and we thoroughly enjoyed eyeballing all the Chanel and Hermes and Givenchy offerings. We then found a place to sit and chug water, then headed to the car and were dropped off at the hotel near the Orly airport for the night.&nbsp;<h2>Normandy &amp; Mont St. Michel</h2>AJ and I woke up feeling grateful for air conditioning, and we headed to pick up our rental car at the Orly airport before driving north to the beaches of the Normandy region. You may have heard of Normandy, dear reader, no? Have you heard of World War II? D-Day? That’s right, the American, British, Canadian, and Australian troops stormed the beaches of Normandy and we saw some of those very shores.&nbsp;We first went to Arromanches-Les-Bains, a cute beach town that welcomes tourists and flies the American, British, Canadian, and Australian flags in deference to Operation Overlord, the successful Allied Forces campaign against the Nazis during WWII. We drove along the coast and saw Nazi artillery batteries that remain nestled in the French countryside. It was sobering, to say the least, to walk around these intact concrete shelters where Nazi soldiers were waiting to launch shells at Allied Forces walking up the beach. I am so grateful the history remains and was heartened to see several tourists from several countries visiting and talking about the encampments. We ended our mini-tour at Omaha Beach, where primarily American forces arrived on the beaches, and we both took a moment to feel the weight of gratitude for those who lost their lives keeping America safe.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716275/IMG_1225_c12e9d7dff.jpg" alt="IMG_1225.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716275/thumbnail_IMG_1225_c12e9d7dff.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716276/small_IMG_1225_c12e9d7dff.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716276/medium_IMG_1225_c12e9d7dff.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>After an afternoon of thinking about WWII, we were ready for lighter fare and enjoyed driving through rural France to right outside&nbsp;<a href="https://en.normandie-tourisme.fr/unmissable-sites/the-mont-saint-michel/">Mont St. Michel</a>, where we spent the night. The next morning, we popped out of bed and drove 15 minutes to the aforementioned site, which is a Benedictine abbey atop a giant granite rock named for the archangel St. Michael. Twice a day, tides rise high enough to lick at the walls holding up the several buildings tucked underneath the huge abbey. We slowly made our way up, up, up the stairs to the abbey itself and enjoyed the tour. The views from the terrace were awe-inspiring, and visiting Mont St. Michel was a bucket list item for both AJ and me.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716277/IMG_1230_2386b53313.jpg" alt="IMG_1230.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716278/thumbnail_IMG_1230_2386b53313.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716279/small_IMG_1230_2386b53313.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1662716278/medium_IMG_1230_2386b53313.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Tip for those planning to visit Mont St. Michel: we recommend going as early as possible. Our tickets were for 9:30 am, and the place was already crawling with people when we got to the shuttles. You can take a shuttle over, but expect it to be shoulder-to-shoulder. You can also walk to the island; it’s 1-2 miles away from the parking lot area. There are also hotels on the Mount itself, but the reviews for them were unanimously abysmal, so we’d recommend staying somewhere nearby. Overall, it’s a must-see location, and a little planning will help make the day go smoothly.&nbsp;That’s all, folks! Merci beaucoup for reading this. Please leave any and all comments - they make our day!&nbsp;

We had a lovely time in the City of Lights - Paris, baby! Check out our French adventures, including a trip to Omaha Beach and Mont St. Michel. Merci beaucoup!

France: Paris & Normandy | Expedition JAWA

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France: Paris & Normandy

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Our travels took us to Amsterdam, Belgium, and Germany, and we loved every second! Read on to learn more about the waffles, magic, and history we experienced.

Amsterdam, Belgium, and a Day in Aachen, Germany | Expedition JAWA

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Amsterdam, Belgium, and a Day in Aachen, Germany

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We did England up, baby! Learn more about our time in York, Bath, Stonehenge, and London.

England: York, Bath, Stonehenge, and London | Expedition Jawa

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England - York, Bath & London

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<h2>But First - A Bag Update!!!!!</h2>I GOT MY BAG BACK!!!!!! Wow, I was seriously starting to think I’d never see my green Away Bigger Carry-on again. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t shed a few tears over the prospect of actually losing my bag (judge if you must) and I can’t put into words how amazing the reunion was. It’s actually a funny story…<h2>A Quick-ish Story on Faith</h2>Indulge me, readers, for a quick, wild story about my bag’s glorious return. As you may remember, I tucked an Apple Airtag into my suitcase before we left, which I cannot recommend enough, and eventually saw that my bag was sitting in the Dublin airport. Hey I was in Dublin, my bag was in Dublin, amazing and simple, right? If you didn’t realize it’s not nearly so simple, you may not have ventured on an international flight during summer 2022. It’s a madhouse out here between airport staff shortages and a gigantic influx of travelers relieved to be able to leave their homes after these many years of COVID.&nbsp;Anywho, I showed up to the Dublin airport ready to receive my bag, only to be told that nobody could help me. Let’s not dwell on that; I’ve been attempting to find my zen on this trip and this part of the tale just gives me agita. Suffice to say I was not reunited with my bag until a week later when I half heartedly tried again a few hours before our flight to Edinburgh. Two actual angels on earth spent about 2 hours doggedly searching for my bag, which of course wasn’t in the usual places. They ended up taking my phone with them around back hallways I wasn’t allowed in, and FINALLY THEY FOUND IT.Now, here’s the faith part. My dear friend Emily (hi, Emily!) suggested I pray to St. Anthony about my lost bag. I didn’t grow up Catholic and know next to nothing about saints, but I introduced myself to him and sent up several prayers. After getting my bag back, I was so humbled that I set out to find a way to pay homage to St. Anthony. AJ suggested I light a candle in a Catholic church, so in Edinburgh I swept into St. Giles’ Cathedral and lit a candle.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004196/IMG_0832_22cc6aa756.jpg" alt="IMG_0832.heic" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004197/thumbnail_IMG_0832_22cc6aa756.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004198/small_IMG_0832_22cc6aa756.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004198/medium_IMG_0832_22cc6aa756.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004197/large_IMG_0832_22cc6aa756.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>How about later that day, we were all hiking Arthur’s Seat when AJ informed me that right off our path was…wait for it…. the remains of St. Anthony’s Chapel. Chills. I marched over and dropped to my knees in thanks, and I’m still humbled by the blessing bestowed upon me via St. Anthony. He’s amazing, y’all.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004147/IMG_0880_28e38ceeb9.jpg" alt="IMG_0880.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004148/thumbnail_IMG_0880_28e38ceeb9.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004150/small_IMG_0880_28e38ceeb9.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004149/medium_IMG_0880_28e38ceeb9.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004148/large_IMG_0880_28e38ceeb9.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h2>Edinburgh - A Seriously Spooky City</h2>Now back to our regularly scheduled travel content! AJ and I joined some friends in Edinburgh - two lovely college friends of mine, Melinda and Ashley, Melinda’s boyfriend Michał, and Michał’s British friend Forrest. We lucked out with our AirBnb - it was ~20 minutes walk into the city center, which turned out to be just the right balance between proximity and distance from the crowds and noise. We comfortably had room for all six people in our party, and the host, Paul, was extremely helpful and thoughtful.&nbsp;<a href="https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/3486825?source_impression_id=p3_1660915813_bo3ArfVEehnkL8l0">Here’s a link if you’re interested!</a>Our first adventure all together was a ghost tour. We picked out the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.cityofthedeadtours.com/double-dead-tour.html">Double Dead tour</a> from City of the Dead Tours, and it was perhaps the single greatest tour I’ve ever been on. Our guide Katie was knowledgeable to say the least; she made the creepy history come to life, and her love of Edinburgh was infectious.&nbsp;This tour is DOUBLE DEAD because it takes you to both the underground vaults and through Greyfriars Kirkyard. The vaults are next level scary, y’all. I had no clue that the impoverished people of Edinburgh were forced underground to be crammed into inhumane, pitch black conditions in the recent past. It is sobering, to say the least, to walk among the dank brick rooms where too many people lived, died, gave birth, and generally struggled to live. In Greyfriars Kirkyard, we got to go into a vault in which an active poltergeist is known for knocking tourists out. Super fun. I thankfully was not knocked unconscious, but you best believe I was the first one out of there. The tour was 5/5 stars, and I feel obliged to tell you there were no less than three jump scares from Katie. She’s good, that Katie.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661005398/download_d987d831d1.jpg" alt="download.jpeg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661005398/thumbnail_download_d987d831d1.jpg 190w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661005399/small_download_d987d831d1.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661005399/medium_download_d987d831d1.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661005398/large_download_d987d831d1.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h2>More Sights and Sounds of Edinburgh</h2>I’ve already mentioned our hike up Arthur’s Seat. It was a beautiful view, but man oh man, was that hike brutal. It’s ~1 mile in length, but 822 ft in elevation. AJ’s Apple watch said we climbed over 50 flights of stairs that day, and our average otherwise was 15 per day.&nbsp; &nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004227/IMG_0851_20d46c728c.jpg" alt="IMG_0851.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004227/thumbnail_IMG_0851_20d46c728c.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004229/small_IMG_0851_20d46c728c.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004229/medium_IMG_0851_20d46c728c.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004228/large_IMG_0851_20d46c728c.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Also, if you only hear me on one thing about Edinburgh, let it be that it’s insanely hilly. Absolutely gorgeous, rich history, etc. etc. but please stretch your calves. My achilles heels have never been sore before. Rest assured they were after several days of 20,000+ steps walking up, up, up, up, up, up endless hills and stairs. I’m still not sure how everything seems to be uphill in both directions. AJ says I’m exaggerating.&nbsp;Outside of the ghost tour and Arthur’s Seat, our group explored the National Monument, did a Mary King’s Close tour, and poked around Edinburgh Castle. We also saw several comedy shows as part of the Fringe Festival, which I’d highly recommend attending if you don’t mind crowds or mostly mediocre live comedy. Oh, and there’s a cat cafe I’d recommend:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maisondemoggy.com/">Maison de Moggy</a>. As of this writing there are ten kitties who live there, and every single one is adorable.&nbsp;One outing I’d recommend is grabbing drinks at&nbsp;<a href="https://www.johnniewalker.com/en-gb/visit-us-princes-street/rooftop-bar-dining/?gclid=CjwKCAjw6fyXBhBgEiwAhhiZsn6yLMFAdSbNFn3zFjKOH738gLZHJ4IX9aHMzogZO_6t826luLhXcRoCn1cQAvD_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds">Johnnie Walker’s rooftop bar</a>. It’s indoor with a rooftop balcony, and the menu is seriously cool. All the drinks are quite posh and somewhat expensive (less than £20). Their menu doesn't even tell you exactly what's in each drink; they just share fancy tasting notes. I had fennel + brambles and apple + rosemary, both of which were unique and yummy.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004070/IMG_9509_c6af436c4e.jpg" alt="IMG_9509.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004070/thumbnail_IMG_9509_c6af436c4e.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004072/small_IMG_9509_c6af436c4e.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004072/medium_IMG_9509_c6af436c4e.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004071/large_IMG_9509_c6af436c4e.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h2>Another Coincidence in Edinburgh</h2>One day, our group popped into a Sainsbury’s to grab beer when AJ spotted a woman wearing a Philadelphia Eagles jersey (GO BIRDS). I “Go Birds”-ed at her, and turns out she’s a Philly native who put on a&nbsp;<a href="http://queenoffishtown.com">one-woman show about living in Fishtown</a>! Wild, right? Ashley, AJ, and I went the next day and our general consensus was that it was a great show, a love letter to working moms.&nbsp;<h2> Inverness</h2>After leaving Edinburgh and saying a sad goodbye to our friends, AJ and I hopped on a train for Inverness, about three hours north. We greatly enjoyed the lush, green views on the way. Inverness itself is not particularly big, and we spent most of our time relaxing in the BnB room on Ardconnel Street. The BnB had a gorgeous free-standing bathtub, so that’s where I spent all my time. It was glorious. We did walk along a very pretty river to the local botanical gardens and later had some excellent pizza. We recommend&nbsp;<a href="https://www.cheeseandtomatin.com/menu/">Cheese and Tomatin</a> if you’re in the area.<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004070/IMG_0942_7442302aa6.jpg" alt="IMG_0942.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004071/thumbnail_IMG_0942_7442302aa6.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004072/small_IMG_0942_7442302aa6.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004072/medium_IMG_0942_7442302aa6.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1661004072/large_IMG_0942_7442302aa6.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>We took a bus back to Edinburgh. We didn’t initially plan to take a bus, but the rail strikes have been coming consistently, and our booked train was canceled on the appointed day. So, bus it was.We sat on the upper level, and it was surprisingly hot. I’d recommend sitting on a lower level in case you’re ever in this exact situation! They even turned the heat on for the last hour and the upper level folks were dying. There is nothing more fun than lugging your (beloved but admittedly overly heavy) bag up the blasted hills of Edinburgh after sitting in a bus/sauna for three hours!&nbsp;Our last night in Edinburgh was spent at a small apartment AJ found tucked near Edinburgh Castle. We were able to hear the entire Tattoo from our room, and we now wish we had gotten tickets and gone ourselves. There were fireworks, Mexican mariachi music (?), amazing bagpipes, and overall good times coming out of those temporary stands.&nbsp;<h2>What’s Next?</h2>We are now kicking off the England portion of our adventures - stay tuned for York, Bath, and London!&nbsp;

Another week, another adventure! We had an amazing time exploring Scotland, specifically visiting Edinburgh, experiencing the Fringe Festival, and spending a few leisurely days in Inverness. You know the drill - more stories and specifics below!

Scotland - Edinburgh and Inverness | Expedition JAWA

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Scotland - Edinburgh and Inverness

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We rented a car from Dublin (Sixt was the company, if you’re wondering. We had a great experience with them!). The pickup was near our hotel so schlepping over wasn’t difficult. Our car was a little, French Renault Clio. I LOVE a car with a name! Clio was fabulous, and AJ took to driving right away. I didn’t make an attempt to drive, instead enjoying watching the gorgeous countryside.&nbsp;<h2>Kilkenny</h2>We jumped on the M (M = motorway, comparable to interstates back home) and headed to Kilkenny. We stayed at the loveliest AirBnB (here’s a link if you’re interested). The grounds were spacious and everything was so green and quiet and wonderful. I can’t say enough good things about the countryside.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477249/IMG_9308_56612e44c0.jpg" alt="IMG_9308.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477250/thumbnail_IMG_9308_56612e44c0.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477251/small_IMG_9308_56612e44c0.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477251/medium_IMG_9308_56612e44c0.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477250/large_IMG_9308_56612e44c0.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>After checking in, we ventured to Kilkenny city. Go ahead and drink every time I use the word “lovely,” because truly everything was lovely. When driving in, we saw a middle-school aged kid busking with his trumpet for change, which was adorable. We died laughing when we saw Mom was sitting nearby waiting for him to - collect enough money? Get in his required 30 minutes of daily practice? Cannot confirm.&nbsp;We toured&nbsp;<a href="https://kilkennycastle.ie/">Kilkenny Castle</a>, which was a very cool medieval building. Other interesting things include the fact that they call alleyways “Slips.” We found the Buttery Slip first. Charming, right? We had a delicious sandwich at a cute cafe off the main road, then headed back to rest at our BnB.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477145/IMG_0827_cb3e7ca6ec.jpg" alt="IMG_0827.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477145/thumbnail_IMG_0827_cb3e7ca6ec.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477146/small_IMG_0827_cb3e7ca6ec.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477146/medium_IMG_0827_cb3e7ca6ec.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477145/large_IMG_0827_cb3e7ca6ec.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>In the morning, we were thrilled to realize that our host was making us breakfast! What’s better than eating homemade food after several days of eating out? I had smoked salmon and scrambled eggs while AJ opted for a full Irish breakfast. He says, “When in Rome,” when I ask if he likes it, and he has also been drinking tea at every chance.&nbsp;<h2>Waterford and the Copper Coast</h2>We reluctantly left our idyllic BnB and headed for&nbsp;<a href="https://www.ireland.com/en-us/destinations/county/waterford/waterford-city/">Waterford</a> at our host’s suggestion. Waterford was settled by Vikings, and there are still many medieval buildings around town. We went to the Irish Museum of Time, which boasts an extensive collection of clocks. It was very cool, and I highly recommend taking an hour to stroll through it.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477158/IMG_0855_8a5e6859f6.jpg" alt="IMG_0855.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477158/thumbnail_IMG_0855_8a5e6859f6.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477160/small_IMG_0855_8a5e6859f6.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477159/medium_IMG_0855_8a5e6859f6.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477159/large_IMG_0855_8a5e6859f6.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Then we hopped back into the car to drive to Cork via the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.discoverireland.ie/waterford/the-copper-coast-unesco-global-geopark">Copper Coast</a>, and WOW was it gorgeous. Truly the most beautiful landscape I’ve personally ever seen, and I’ve been to Colorado! Lush and green don’t begin to describe it. We drove to the ocean, along cliffs (eek), past beaches, green farmlands and valleys. I saw so, so many cows. It seems like cows are along the south, and sheep start to pop up on the west coast. I know you were wondering about the cows and sheep, dear reader. We thoroughly enjoyed the drive and arrived in Cork knackered and ready for sleep.&nbsp;If I’m honest, I don’t really have any Cork stories for you. We walked towards the university from our BnB and didn’t see much. No Cork slander, we just didn’t take the time to really jump into the city to see what it’s all about. We did get a yummy pizza that came with a mystery bag that turned out to be full of chips (french fries). So that was fun.&nbsp;From Cork, we visited&nbsp;<a href="https://blarneycastle.ie/">Blarney Castle and Gardens,</a> which was one of the highlights of the whole trip thus far. The castle is a bit harrowing to be honest. The steps are STEEEEEEP going up, up, up to the top where the Blarney stone is. If you’re wondering why you’ve heard of the Blarney stone, it’s because it’s quite famous for being a rock that people kiss. It allegedly gives you the gift of gab. AJ and I chose not to kiss it, and I hear you calling us party poopers, but I stand by my decision. We just felt meh about it. Lines were long at the castle, but they had interesting factoids and information about how the rooms were used.&nbsp;There is a “murder hole” in Blarney Castle. You, gentle reader, may know that AJ and I had a murder hole of our own in our last Philadelphia apartment (it was a storage cave and I’m still convinced that the ghosts / Blair Witch herself live there). This one, however, is used to pour hot tar on people you wish to murder.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477172/IMG_0864_cba2b442ae.jpg" alt="IMG_0864.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477173/thumbnail_IMG_0864_cba2b442ae.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477174/small_IMG_0864_cba2b442ae.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477174/medium_IMG_0864_cba2b442ae.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477173/large_IMG_0864_cba2b442ae.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>The gardens were the real highlight of Blarney Castle to me. We found a Woodland Walk, which was quiet, intensely green, and serene. I found some trees that I could sit among, and I enjoyed speaking with them (I’ll never tell what they told me).&nbsp;<h2>Dingle and Castlegregory</h2>From Blarney Castle, we drove more gorgeous country roads out and up to Dingle, which is on a peninsula on Ireland’s west coast. We had fish and chips at Sheehy’s, which was delicious. Dingle is a very small, cute coastal town that smells of fish, but in a way that makes you not mind. We also grabbed a few pints at&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dickmackspub.com/">Dick Mack’s pub</a> - Guinness for me and local beers for AJ.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477278/IMG_9370_53216cbd5b.jpg" alt="IMG_9370.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477278/thumbnail_IMG_9370_53216cbd5b.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477280/small_IMG_9370_53216cbd5b.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477279/medium_IMG_9370_53216cbd5b.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477279/large_IMG_9370_53216cbd5b.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Our BnB was in Castlegregory, and I was especially excited to stay there because of how gorgeous the pictures looked. The drive from Dingle was….wild, but fun.&nbsp;<a href="https://dingle-peninsula.ie/explore/conor-pass.html">Conor Pass&nbsp;</a>is maybe the single most gorgeous drive I’ve ever done (I never pretended to not be hyperbolic) and AJ and I blasted Flogging Molly while careening around the winding roads. Often times, Irish roads are one lane, yet two-way streets. It makes it…fun? You have to anticipate cars around every single turn or bend, and then start the dance of pulling over to let them by/squeezing by them. All in all, a bit scary but ultimately fun. I give major kudos to AJ for figuring it all out.Anywho, our BnB was gorgeous and our host was another lovely Irish lady who made us breakfast in the morning. Highly recommend -&nbsp;<a href="https://www.airbnb.co.uk/trips/v1/4b66d0f5-9eb0-4e80-9153-47cdc34d230d/ro/RESERVATION2_CHECKIN/HMBNR9W9Z3">here’s a link.&nbsp;</a><h2>Cliffs of Moher</h2>Wow, how am I still writing about Ireland? We did a bunch of stuff over 5 days. We’re getting close to the end, I promise!&nbsp;AJ dragged me to the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.cliffsofmoher.ie/">Cliffs of Moher</a> for a hike - just kidding, I was super down to do the walk. We took a ferry to cross to where the cliffs are, and that experience was extremely cool. We did get gnarly sunburns (ok, I did - AJ turned a lovely golden brown) during our ~5 mile trek, but the views were worth it! Yes, these are the cliffs of insanity from The Princess Bride if you were wondering!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477192/IMG_0887_051a81abc1.jpg" alt="IMG_0887.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477192/thumbnail_IMG_0887_051a81abc1.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477194/small_IMG_0887_051a81abc1.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477193/medium_IMG_0887_051a81abc1.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477193/large_IMG_0887_051a81abc1.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Ah, one more wild story regarding the cliffs: as we left, AJ changed his shirt and set his glasses on top of our car. Inevitably, we drove off with them on top of our car and didn’t realize it until 15 minutes later. We raced back to the parking lot and actually found the glasses on the ground. They had been run over, but somehow AJ was able to bend them back and pop the lenses in so they’d make do until he got a new pair the next day. Roka, props to your durability!<h2>Galway</h2>We drove from the Cliffs to Galway, which is where I studied abroad for a month in college. If you’ve met me, I’ve probably talked your ear off about this trip. It was formative and amazing! We were thrilled to realize that the hotel I booked with points was very nice, and I highly recommend the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.eyresquarehotel.com/">Eyre Square Hotel</a>. We lucked out and had a newly-renovated room with a King-sized bed; this was a nice departure from our double beds, which seem to be the norm.&nbsp;We did a walking tour we found on AirBnb the next morning. Gerry did an amazing tour -&nbsp;<a href="https://www.airbnb.co.uk/experiences/3376330">here’s a link to his experience</a>. We learned all about the history of Galway and enjoyed seeing the sites. After the tour, we decided to spend most of the day napping and lounging around in the hotel room until we grabbed a pint at the pub across from our hotel. Then, more napping was essential because we went out to hear some traditional Irish music at&nbsp;<a href="https://taaffesbar.ie/">Taaffe’s Bar</a> at 9 pm / 17. Look, I’m adapting-ish to 24-hour time! The music was amazing; they played a lot of American 80’s hits in the Irish style. A great time was had by all - we actually tied one on and deeply regretted it the next morning.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477192/IMG_0903_7c159ad12f.jpg" alt="IMG_0903.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477193/thumbnail_IMG_0903_7c159ad12f.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477194/small_IMG_0903_7c159ad12f.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477193/medium_IMG_0903_7c159ad12f.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1660477193/large_IMG_0903_7c159ad12f.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>You’ve now caught up to us - we are in Edinburgh with friends and will get back to you once that trip is concluded.Sláinte!

After Dublin, we rented a car and headed to Kilkenny, down the Copper Coast to Cork, to Dingle, and finally to Galway. Check out our adventures!

The Irish Countryside | Expedition JAWA

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The Irish Countryside - Southern & Western Ireland

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<h2>Dublin Wrap-Up: Jen Edition</h2>Hi friends! Thank you for reading our blog and following along with our adventure thus far. I’m excited to share with you some highlights of our three days in Dublin so you don’t have to wait a single second longer for the details.AJ will be providing his very own wrap-ups, which is why this is a special “Jen Edition.” I’ve honestly never read any long-form writing from him, so it’ll be fun and surprising for us all.<h3>Important Stats</h3><ul style="list-style-type:disc;"><li>Miles Walked: ~15</li><li>Guinesses Consumed:&nbsp;7</li><li>Jen Bags Recovered:&nbsp;0, she’s in Portugal without me</li><li>Money Spent on Temporary Wardrobe: ~$200, which World Nomads insurance will HOPEFULLY reimburse</li></ul><h2>Day 1: St. Stephen’s Green, Trinity College Strolling &amp; Clothes Shopping</h2>As you may have read in my&nbsp;<a href="https://www.expeditionjawa.com/blog/travel-day-1">Travel Day 1 post</a>, we spent our first day in Dublin wandering around in a jet-lagged daze.&nbsp;We are staying in the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.harcourthotel.ie/">Harcourt Hotel,</a> which is a great, non-expensive option in a primo location. I will say that as I type this, the restaurant on both sides of our room has transformed into a full on nightclub. Since most buildings here don’t have air conditioning (honestly the weather doesn’t call for it - it’s been in the mid-60’s), our windows are staying open. That means that right now, at 1 am, I’m bobbing my head to Boney M.’s “Rasputin” as drunken cackles serenade me to sleep. Otherwise, a great place! &nbsp;After checking into our hotel, we took a stroll down to St. Stephen’s Green, which is a stunning park, and through Trinity College’s campus. We eventually ambled to Penneys, which had some wild, inexpensive clothing that I happily scooped up in my tired, bagless haze. My favorite purchase? Either a gray t-shirt dress that says “Louisiana Athletics” on it or a t-shirt with kitty cats wearing shades that simply states…”Aloha.”&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659864267/IMG_9296_1cae2dc56d.jpg" alt="IMG_9296.JPG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659864267/thumbnail_IMG_9296_1cae2dc56d.jpg 208w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659864268/small_IMG_9296_1cae2dc56d.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659864268/medium_IMG_9296_1cae2dc56d.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659864268/large_IMG_9296_1cae2dc56d.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h2>Dublin Castle and Guinness</h2>On day 2, we showered in our teeny-tiny (by American standards, at least) hotel shower and headed out to seize the day. I found a great place for breakfast called&nbsp;<a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g186605-d4688910-Reviews-Cafe_Sofia-Dublin_County_Dublin.html">Cafe Sofia</a> near our hotel that boasted great food for low prices. AJ’s vegetarian full-Irish breakfast was 10.50 euros. Lots of local construction workers were eating with us, so you know it’s a solid place.Then, we went shopping on Grafton Street so I could get some more clothing essentials while my bag made its way to Lisbon, Portugal. Sigh.&nbsp;After shopping and a costume change, we toured&nbsp;<a href="https://www.dublincastle.ie/">Dublin Castle</a>, a gorgeous building with great self-guided tours. We especially loved the Throne Room, which Charles Dickens allegedly described as a “very glittering spectacle indeed.”&nbsp;Then we honestly crashed at the hotel room for a few hours to work on this blog (working hard for you, people!) before trekking to the Guinness Storehouse for the tour. We sprung for the higher-tier tickets that included a lesson on how to pour a perfect Guinness (I’ll never tell) and an extra drink at the top-floor bar. We LOVED the tour here, it was extremely well done and fun and also, pro tip: drinking 2 Guinnesses on an empty stomach is quite a choice, ha!<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659708990/AJ_Guiness_Pour_c5bb7992a4.jpg" alt="AJ_Guiness_Pour.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659708991/thumbnail_AJ_Guiness_Pour_c5bb7992a4.jpg 245w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659708993/small_AJ_Guiness_Pour_c5bb7992a4.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659708992/medium_AJ_Guiness_Pour_c5bb7992a4.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659708992/large_AJ_Guiness_Pour_c5bb7992a4.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Then we ate at the Brazen Head, the oldest pub in Ireland. I had fish and chips and AJ had beef and Guinness stew, and both were very yummy.&nbsp;<h2>Book of Kells</h2>Today, the 3rd day in Dublin, we went through the Book of Kells tour at Trinity College, which culminated in a visit to the Long Room, one of the most gorgeous libraries on Earth, I’m sure. It was absolutely breathtaking to be in a room with so many ancient books. I highly, highly recommend this tour.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659709014/Jen_old_Library_c60f118ab0.jpg" alt="Jen_oldLibrary.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659709015/thumbnail_Jen_old_Library_c60f118ab0.jpg 233w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659709016/small_Jen_old_Library_c60f118ab0.jpg 500w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659709016/medium_Jen_old_Library_c60f118ab0.jpg 750w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659709015/large_Jen_old_Library_c60f118ab0.jpg 1000w," sizes="100vw"></figure>Then, frankly, we slept. Look, I feel the need to share with you all that slow travel is a lifestyle, and we are not trying to squeeze in as many things as possible here. We are trying to enjoy our days, and today that meant a 4 hour nap. After heading to dinner at the afore-mentioned nightclub/restaurant next to our hotel, we feel like we’ve gotten a good handle on Dublin.<h2>What’s Next??</h2>Stay tuned to find out! No, really we are renting a car tomorrow and driving to Kilkenny for a day, then to Cork and Dingle before hanging out in Galway for a few days. Many of you know I studied abroad there in college (for one month!) and adore that city with my whole heart. Looking forward to keeping y’all apprised of our adventures, one nap day at a time.

Dublin is done! Here are Jen’s thoughts and stories about the trip.

Dublin Wrap-Up: Jen Edition | Expedition JAWA

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Dublin Wrap-Up: Jen Edition

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Hi, friends! Jen here - coming at you live with travel day updates. I’m writing this from a hotel room in Dublin; by the way, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwjmh8C40av5AhXDnXcKHSpXD48YABAEGgJlZg&amp;ohost=www.google.com&amp;cid=CAESbeD2EaD5wrzv4YogY9_bq1U3fdUE88ht3d19k4FLYOVjY7MEk41uhluzicvyaSAwf86CPtpY0ssDrtptjcrN4RhmO0K6rYRZ9WgyEv0tXpzC-8fbTMrJ6ScPAczFqNMvm4owloadhp2u6gOgBnw&amp;sig=AOD64_2GE71Fwhs2Y56XjKiKOw9jHz3sOw&amp;q&amp;adurl&amp;ved=2ahUKEwi_lLS40av5AhUoXvEDHbcxDCIQ0Qx6BAgDEAM">Harcourt Hotel</a> is lovely, great location and reasonably priced.&nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:25%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565189/IMG_9162_558ac083fe.jpg" alt="IMG_9162.jpeg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565189/thumbnail_IMG_9162_558ac083fe.jpg 119w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565191/small_IMG_9162_558ac083fe.jpg 382w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565190/medium_IMG_9162_558ac083fe.jpg 573w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565190/large_IMG_9162_558ac083fe.jpg 763w," sizes="100vw"></figure>The past two-ish days have been a weird time-warped whirlwind of travel. We launched from Atlanta to Boston on Tuesday, 8/2, flew to Lisbon, and sprinted through our 60-minute layover to Dublin. Overall in-flight time was probably 12 hours, not including the time change, and we landed in Dublin much bedraggled and unsure of our relationship to time.&nbsp;My bag predictably did not make it, which is still a major bummer. I’m grateful for AJ’s insistence that we put Apple AirTags in our luggage, and mine dutifully reported that my little green Away Bigger Carry-on is sitting her happy self in a concourse in the Boston airport.&nbsp;I’ve reached out to JetBlue (our first flight provider) and TAP Portugal (our second provider), filed claims, and found some truly outrageous clothing at Penneys / Primark (think Forever 21).&nbsp; &nbsp;<figure class="image image_resized" style="width:25%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565181/IMG_9177_10bdfd1221.jpg" alt="IMG_9177.PNG" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565182/thumbnail_IMG_9177_10bdfd1221.jpg 134w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565183/small_IMG_9177_10bdfd1221.jpg 429w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565182/medium_IMG_9177_10bdfd1221.jpg 644w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565182/large_IMG_9177_10bdfd1221.jpg 859w," sizes="100vw"></figure><h2>We get that your bag’s missing, but what else have you done??</h2>Ah, thank you for asking. After landing in Dublin, AJ and I arrived at our hotel to drop off our bags, then trekked through&nbsp;<a href="https://ststephensgreenpark.ie/">St. Stephen’s Green</a>,&nbsp;<a href="https://www.graftonstreet.ie/">Grafton Street</a>, and&nbsp;<a href="https://www.tcd.ie/">Trinity College</a> before arriving at Penneys. We saw a lovely busker singing ABBA, some amazing flowers at St. Stephen’s Green, and many, many seagulls.&nbsp;The weather in Ireland is absolutely amazing - mid 60s and breezy - and we are loving it after a hot summer in Sarasota, FL, and Gadsden, AL, visiting family.&nbsp;<h2>Y’all didn’t do much</h2>No, you’re right, but tomorrow we have many plans to make the most of Dublin before we leave on Saturday!&nbsp;Stay tuned for our full summary of Dublin once we’ve wandered around for a few days.

We made it to Dublin, but our checked bag didn’t. Check out our initial travel musings!

Travel Day 1 - Lost Bag Chronicles | Expedition JAWA

Travel Day 1 - Lost Bag, Lost Spirit?

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<h2>What is this trip?&nbsp;</h2>Hi, nice to meet you! So, AJ and I took 5 months off working to travel full-time all around Western Europe. Cool, right?! &nbsp;<h2>Wait, you quit your jobs?</h2>So, AJ’s job graciously offered to extend him a leave of absence, so he will be returning full-time in January 2023. Jen hasn’t decided her exact next steps, but did move on from her last job.&nbsp;<h2>Where are you going?</h2>Finally a fun question! So far, we are planning to visit:Ireland, Scotland, England, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece, The Netherlands, Belgium, Turkey, Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Croatia&nbsp;<h2>What made you want to go on this trip?</h2>I won’t lie, this is a weird question to me, because to AJ and myself, the allure of this trip is undeniable. We don’t have a house, don’t have kids, and are privileged enough to have been able to save up some cash money for travel. Who wouldn’t want to jet around Europe on a whim for 5 months?&nbsp;<h2>How do you feel?</h2>Thank you for asking! Jen is excited, nervous, full of curiosity yet also wonderment, intrigued, beguiled, apprehensive as all get out, you get the picture. AJ is “ready to rock and roll.”&nbsp; &nbsp;<h2>What will you do after the trip?</h2>Please don’t ask us this; it is very stressful! Truly don’t want to think about it, and honestly the January versions of us will be so infinitely cooler, sexier, etc. that we feel confident letting them handle those decisions.&nbsp;

We noticed some FAQs emerge among friends and family. Here are our initial answers - they’re likely to change!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) | Expedition JAWA

Frequently Asked Questions

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<h2>Meet Jen Hester</h2><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:25%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565531/IMG_9167_1ffa83de28.jpg" alt="IMG_9167.jpeg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565532/thumbnail_IMG_9167_1ffa83de28.jpg 117w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565533/small_IMG_9167_1ffa83de28.jpg 375w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565533/medium_IMG_9167_1ffa83de28.jpg 563w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565532/large_IMG_9167_1ffa83de28.jpg 750w," sizes="100vw"></figure>A native Southerner, Jen grew up in Gadsden, Alabama to two south-Georgians (this may not seem important offhand, but in the South we very much care about what part of what state we are from!). She grew up traveling fairly often with her wonderful parents, aunt, and grandparents, and often assumed she would settle after college in some small-ish town in the South. That is…not how that turned out.Jen broke her parents’ UGA bulldawg hearts by attending The University of Alabama (drink everytime you see “Roll Tide” on this blog, seriously) and majoring in English and public relations. Then after a series of increasingly better jobs and encouragement from AJ, she ventured into SEO and UX Research, the fields currently closest to her heart.&nbsp;She is traveling to attempt to ~find herself~ which is a suuuuper attainable, achievable goal, right? Stay tuned to see how this one turns out!<h2>3 Phrases to Describe Jen’s Personality</h2><ul style="list-style-type:disc;"><li>Professional talker yet an introvert (very fun combo)</li><li>Sunshiney and warm</li><li>Emotionally intelligent &nbsp;</li></ul><h2>Jen’s Favorite Things</h2><ul style="list-style-type:disc;"><li>Sleeping</li><li>Eating, especially cheese</li><li>Reading fiction</li><li>Crocheting (I haven’t finished a piece yet which weirdly makes me feel more like a real crafter)</li><li>Animals (obsessed equally with kitty cats and puppy dogs - I will be petting all animals who let me)</li><li>Black and white movies</li><li>Deep-dish pizza</li></ul><h2>Meet AJ</h2><figure class="image image_resized image-style-side" style="width:25%;"><img src="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565161/EBBDEDE_1_23_E9_4_FB_9_99_C2_5058_D6_ACB_9_D9_5d6c311c21.jpg" alt="EBBDEDE1-23E9-4FB9-99C2-5058D6ACB9D9.jpg" srcset="https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565161/thumbnail_EBBDEDE_1_23_E9_4_FB_9_99_C2_5058_D6_ACB_9_D9_5d6c311c21.jpg 119w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565163/small_EBBDEDE_1_23_E9_4_FB_9_99_C2_5058_D6_ACB_9_D9_5d6c311c21.jpg 382w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565162/medium_EBBDEDE_1_23_E9_4_FB_9_99_C2_5058_D6_ACB_9_D9_5d6c311c21.jpg 572w,https://res.cloudinary.com/dwl9zbfko/image/upload/v1659565162/large_EBBDEDE_1_23_E9_4_FB_9_99_C2_5058_D6_ACB_9_D9_5d6c311c21.jpg 763w," sizes="100vw"></figure>AJ is from lots of different places, but primarily the Northeast US. Originally born outside Philly, he has lived in Connecticut, New Jersey, North Carolina, Georgia, and Pennsylvania. While this is confusing to Jen, his family lineage is very tied to New Jersey and he has the Italian blood to prove it.&nbsp;However, don’t assume he lacks all Southern manners - he’s a super nice guy who can truly get along with anyone regardless of region.AJ works in IT selling ruggedized computers. He is a tech troubleshooter extraordinaire and the entire family’s IT department, but also cooks gourmet-quality food for fun and loves to take things apart and put them back together.&nbsp;His relationship to travel grew from moving around a lot growing up. He says that moving reluctantly instilled a desire to stay in perpetual motion which he now fully embraces. All the jobs he’s had after college include 50 - 75% travel, and this trip was very much his idea!<h2>3 Phrases to Describe AJ’s Personality</h2><ul style="list-style-type:disc;"><li>Pragmatic and even-tempered</li><li>Could talk to a wall even though he’s technically an introvert</li><li>Sarcastic, sharp wit that constantly keeps people on their toes</li></ul><h2>AJ’s Favorite Things</h2><ul style="list-style-type:disc;"><li>Cooking delicious food</li><li>Taking things apart and putting them back together again, especially cars</li><li>Travel the world</li><li>Save pitbulls (just one so far but it went really well, shoutout Philly we love you &lt;3)</li><li>Learning new things (i.e. this website was hand-coded by AJ)</li></ul><h2>More About Our Trip</h2>During the early quarantine days of 2020, AJ proposed saving up as much money as we could and using it to travel instead of buying a house or something else more practical. Jen was all in, dreaming of cheese and Italy generally, and 2.5-ish years later, this trip is a reality.Check out our FAQs to learn more about this trip’s specifics.

Hi! If you’re reading this blog, you may be wondering who we are. Check out this post for an intro to your humble blog hosts, AJ Grant & Jennifer Hester.